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Our ship Captain had a wonderful plan for us today and needed daylight hours to see some scenic volcanic islands and the Hole in the Wall Passage, an alternate route to the Bay of Plenty.  An extra bonus was beautiful sunshine, clear weather and calm seas.  Pictured is White Island Volcano the most active volcano in New Zealand.

Dinner this evening was a celebration, waiters juggled and made flamboyant food presentations, the mood was jovial.  It was the final night for passengers disembarking in Auckland.  I was very disappointed that when the Baked Alaska was served it was not lit in flames, apparently new regulations ban this activity.  During the evening we enjoyed an evening with a male soloist who had an excellent voice.  We entered the port of Auckland during the night.  All disembarking passengers had to have their suitcases packed and ready for an early morning departure.  I’m glad we are staying on three more days and don’t disembark until Sydney, Australia.

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Our stay at the dock in Tauranga was long, we arrived at 6:30AM and we didn’t sail until 5:30AM the next day.  There was a reason for this timing, but I won’t go into this now.  Suffice it to say we had plenty of time to take a nine hour tour and still explore the town.

Bob and I did separate tours, he went to the famous geo thermal reserves at the Rotoura and visited a kiwi reserve, I went on a super long bus ride to underground caves and saw beautiful formations of stalagmites and stalactites.  A river flowed through the bottom of the caverns and boats were waiting for us.  We boarded in the pitch dark, it was a wee bit eerie.  As we silently floated in the dark we saw overhead, clinging to the cave ceilings, thousands of glow worms each emitting  a tiny point of neon purple light.  It was quite amazing.

After the caves we had a lovely lunch in the beautiful gardens of a large dairy farm called Crosshills, in Otorohanga, and toured the gorgeous French Provincial homestead.  Afterward we visited a wildlife preserve and saw the nocturnal kiwi.

This area is rich with cattle and sheep farms, and lots of agriculture.  The weather was quite comfortable and we saw the sun shine most of the day, a welcome sight.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, landscape painter

I can’t decide if I love Napier more than Dunedin, they are both wonderful places, and decidedly different from each other.  Unfortunately due to the extreme tides at the port following Napier, our visit was limited to 5 1/2 hours, the length of our Gannet tour, and left no time to explore this interesting town built with Art Deco architecture.

But the tour to see the largest coastal Gannet colony in the world was worth every minute.  We took small 4 wheel drive busses out to Cape Kidnapper, an hour and a half from the docks, and watched these magnificent birds fly and feed their young from two different sites.  They are wonderful to watch, and we were able to walk among them.  I wish we could stay a week in Napier, there is so much to see and do.

On the drive back to the ship we were stopped by sheep being herded by a shepherd and his dogs.  It is a beautiful sight touring along the coastal bluffs covered in green grass, with steep canyons and drainage’s to the sea, hawks flying overhead with cattle and sheep grazing in the pastures.  Yes, I’m in love with Napier too.  I really need to visit New Zealand again and stay longer next time.

Gail Niebrugge, landscape artist

Wellington is only 45 miles from New Zealand, but the sea between the north and south island is extremely rough and home to many sunken ships.  Our captain warned us of rough seas and we had them, fortunately for only a few hours.  We docked in Wellington during the night and the gangway was lowered at 7:30AM.

The highlights of our day included the Museum of Wellington City and Sea with live documentary film footage of a sinking ship in the harbor and evacuation with life boats resulting in 54 deaths, and touring the Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa where we toured the exhibit featuring paintings by Monet and the Impressionists that are absolutely stunning!  All in all we found Wellington to be a rather large, somewhat dirty city and not very user friendly.  Pictured is a sculpture made of wire installed along the waterfront.

Cautiously we boarded our ship to sail to the next port of Napier.  I dreamed of sinking ships all night.

Gail Niebrugge, impressionist pointillism artist

The night was relatively calm fortunately we missed the forecast rough seas and we woke to see a charming small town outside our cabin window.  The walk into town is only five minutes and is well marked by a painted blue line on the walkways.  The town itself is lovely, very user friendly and clean.  Main street had three or four galleries, the same number of real estate offices, more restaurants and some pubs.  I liked this town very much.

We took a tour over the mountain range and through the Marlborough valley to a beautiful sheep and cattle ranch with stunning gardens.  We watched a sheepherder demons
trate the use of his sheep dogs to round up sheep using voice and whistle commands, then he showed us how to shear a sheep.  After an excellent lunch on the ranch house lawns we toured the well maintained gardens.  This region used to be known for its sheep and cattle ranches, now the ranches have been converted to vineyards for wine production.  Later we toured another private garden owned by a couple who restored a 100 year old victorian house.  The husband builds custom furniture in the shop situated in the middle of the gardens.

We really enjoyed Picton and the surrounding Marlborough region.

Gail Niebrugge, wildflower artist

The weather turned favorable and we rode the free shuttle through the 1 1/4 mile long tunnel from the dock port to the beautiful historic city of Christchurch, New Zealand.  We decided to explore on our own, first stopping at the information center and then asking questions of the many ambassadors stationed around the town square.  We decided to spend the morning walking through the city botanical gardens where the Avon river meandered, flanked by century old trees and rock gardens.  I’m pictured standing under a 140 year old tree planted by the Duke of Edinburgh.  The gardens are astonishing in their variety, design, and beauty.

The day grew comfortably warm, and we decided to take a three hour walking tour with a personal guide in the afternoon.  It was very informative.  Christchurch has so many things to see and do it would take at least a week to explore it all.  We chose very low key activities, although were tempted to ride gondolas and parasail down the mountain, float the white water in a raft, and ride in hot air balloons.  Regrettably, those things are for another day, another visit.

The ship was scheduled to sail at 6:30PM, but at 5:30 the captain announced that a squall was arriving and was visible across the harbor.  We watched it approach kicking up a fine sea spray with its 50 mph winds, followed by sideways rain.  The captain delayed our departure until the winds slowed, then he announced that we might experience rough seas on our way to Picton sometime during the night.  The weather in New Zealand can turn on a dime.  We have learned to wear layers, and always have an umbrella handy.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist on tour

It was love at first sight the moment I looked out the cabin window at daybreak, stunning cays and wee bays surrounded by hillsides lush with green meadows dotted with grazing sheep and cattle.  A magnificent pastoral country coastal scene capped by a sky of towering clouds and rainbows  The homes are well built, clean, freshly painted and had histories, most enjoyed sea views and many had window bays.  The streets are narrow, winding and steep.  The land is well loved and cared for, and very clean and neat.  The people are hardy, dressed in well made study outdoor gear.  My kind of place!

We toured by bus, the driver was merciless toward the Aussies on board.  A strong, friendly rivalry exists between Australia and New Zealand.  The people are spontaneous, unpretentious and friendly.  Our destination was at the Taiaroa Head an adventure with Argo vehicles, 500 private acres where a colony of Furs Seals and Yellow Eyed Penguins reside and nest.  This is an impressive place, the naturalist guides used the utmost discretion and care to protect the animals from being disturbed.  Blinds were used to view the Penguins, so that they never saw a human.

As our ship sailed in the evening sun we saw cliffs covered with hundreds of Albatross nests that are clearly visible from the sea.  This area clearly rivals any coastal nesting area for sea birds and sea life that I’ve seen in Alaska, and I’ve always felt that we had the best of the best.  Well, now I know there is another place, one that will stay close in my heart!

Gail Niebrugge, in love with Dunedin

Our ship made a scenic cruise of this remarkable part of the Te Wahipounammu World Heritage Area of New Zealand.  Unfortunately we had rough seas, strong winds, low clouds and rain, so most of the spectacular vertical cliffs were partially obscured.  This area receives over 300 inches of rain a year and most of it runs off in the form of waterfalls.  In the Milford Sound the rain has created a permanent fresh water layer above the warmer sea water 10 to 13 feet deep.  It is a very dramatic, interesting region.  I’ve given up wishing for sunny, calm days.  If it happens, great, otherwise we are wearing our Alaska jackets and carrying umbrellas.

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska wildlife artist

My fantasies of cruising while enjoying a soak in the hot tub and laying in the sun around the pool have been severely crushed.  We’ve spent at least three days so far in high seas, and the ship really battens down the hatches, all the pools and hot tubs are drained and the central elevators are shut down.  At night all exterior deck lights are shut off because the light attracts birds and they crash into the ship to die.  Along with the predictable problems with walking like a drunken sailor, the sounds of dishes and crystal crashing and breaking are common.  I think I’ve grown used to the pitching and rocking and stopped taking sea sick pills.

Of course it is not advertised in the brochures about this trip that the Tasman Sea is one of the most rough in the world, they did finally post it today in the daily news delivered to our room.  The high seas have severely impacted activity onboard.  Those hearty souls who are able to function are moving about cautiously, and we see very few people anywhere.  Last evening I tried to walk the promenade deck 3 where 3 1/2 laps equal a mile, and it was hard enough to navigate with the pitching and rolling but the deck hands chose that time to test the fire hoses and wash out the life boats overhead on deck 4.  I managed to get in two miles before giving up, stepping gingerly over fire hoses and dodging unexpected waterfalls from overhead lifeboats.

I have to admit this is not one of my favorite parts of cruising, on board in gale force winds.  Tomorrow we cruise the Milford Sound in New Zealand, and hopefully it will me sunny and calm.

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist at sea

At the Cradle Mountain National Park we were able to see a number of Wallabies that I mistook for baby Kangaroos, they are about half the size of a Kangaroo, and fat, fuzzy Wombats.  The creatures of Australia and Tasmania are much smaller than I imagined.  I kept scanning the open meadows for something large like I am used to doing in Alaska.

Pictured here is a Wallaby.

Gail Niebrugge, wildlife paintings

Wow, I’ve never been aboard a ship during high, very rough seas, and really don’t like it too much.  Actually, the captain warned us to be prepared but I don’t think anything can prepare for sailing over rough seas you unless you have done it before.  The good news is that I took my Bonine tablet before bed, the bad news is that I didn’t fall asleep until after 3:00AM because I was not used to the swaying of the boat and the sounds of the sea as it crashed against the sides of our vessel.  The floor above our cabin is the lower promenade, and in the morning I discovered the source of the crashing and banging noises overhead.  All the wooden deck chairs had come loose from their constraints and were tangled all over the walkway.

But, in the morning we docked at the town of Burnie and soon forgot the night before, except for the frequent yawning and fatigue.  Our tour left immediately, the final destination Cradle Mountain Lake St. Claire National Park, but first we visited the charming town of Sheffield known at the “Town of Murals”.  I was especially interested in this place because I recently designed a mural for the town of Seward that claims to be the mural capitol of Alaska.

The story we were told about Sheffield was that years ago the economy was poor and the residents were seeking a way to boost revenue and came upon the idea of having artists paint murals on the sides of the historic buildings.  There are many excellent murals, and finding them was fun somewhat like an Easter egg hunt.  The subjects depicted early life in the Kentish district, and were very enjoyable.  In the “Mural Park” were a number of freestanding paintings each protected by a metal awning.  These murals are replaced each year with new ones.  An energetic and commendable enterprise.

I am especially charmed by the mural on the side of the Sheffield Bible Chapel, note the bird on top of the tree.

What impressed me most in Melbourne was the interesting architecture, old and new, and a close second place is the fantastic public transportation system.  Volunteer ambassadors were easy to find wearing sharp looking red vests, available for visitors answering questions, giving directions and information about the city or other attractions.  We rode the trams and the free city busses, and took a self guided walking tour of the city architecture.

The sad thing happening to this part of Australia is the drought, and many years of less than normal rainfall.  It was visible everywhere, trees were dying and large shrubs looked dead.  With a water shortage, lawns and gardens can not be watered, the landscape was brown and grasses yellow.  The residents are concerned that the area will become desert in the not too distant future.  Nonetheless, Melbourne is a stunning city.

We had eight jam-packed hours there before setting sail to the island of Tasmania, and our wild passage over the roughest sea in the world.  But, that is a story for another blog entry.

Gail Niebrugge, landscape artist

Before we flew back to Sydney we spent the morning riding the Kuranda rain forest sky rail cable cars and exploring the small village of Kuranda.  The town is very eclectic, with lots of art galleries and artists wares.  Sculptures were everywhere, the trash bins were sculpted, as were light poles, railings, and the walkways were made of a combination of mosaic tiles and different sized pebbles in pleasing designs.  I enjoyed this visit.

We made it back to Sydney to board the Holland America Volendam a half hour before sailing!  The bon voyage party on deck was enhanced by the beautifully lit harbor and city skyline.  We settled in for a day at sea before our first port, Melbourne.

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

We spent two nights at Cairns and could have stayed a week.  What an interesting place.  In the evening the Kangaroos come down to the fields to feed, they come in groups of 30 or more.  The ones we watched were hopping about in a fenced area where horses are kept.  I wonder if they are a nuisance to homeowners?

The highlight of our trip was traveling aboard a large catamaran to the Great Barrier Reef to snorkel.  The catamaran could hold up to 300 people, but on our day only about 120 people attended.  Tourism and the economy are in a recession in Australia, the same as the U.S., and we are benefitting from smaller crowds.  The trip to the reef took an hour and a half, and the winds blew 25 knots, making the ride quite rough.  We were prepared and took sea sick pills, but probably half the ship got ill.  We were fortunate.

I have snorkeled in many places; Hawaii, Eastern and Western Caribbean, California, Florida, Mexico, Baja California, and more, but I have never seen the ocean floor as beautiful as that of the Great Barrier Reef.  Or, as many beautiful fish.  It was fun to actually see a Nemo, and a big turtle, and a huge clam shell.  The coral and sea plants were stunning.  It was hot and sunny and we were properly sunburned at the end of the day.

I did not take any photos of the underwater life, but would really like to try to paint what I saw.  I’’m going to have to contact a professional photographer for reference material when I attempt  this project.

Gail Niebrugge, landscape artist

We flew to Cairns, Australia, and toured the crocodile farm and a stunning sea side town of Port Douglas. Again, the weather gods were with us and the heat and sunshine penetrated our lily white bodies. At the crocodile farm we saw many interesting and unusual species of birds, flowers, and small animals indigenous to this region of Australia.

Gail Niebrugge, landscape painter

34 hours after departing Anchorage, Alaska, we arrived in Sydney, Australia. The trip was a long, arduous series of flights punctuated by security checks and customs, the kind of schedule experienced by people who use frequent flyer miles and have little travel savvy. We were routed from Anchorage to Seattle, Los Angeles, Auckland New Zealand, Melbourne Australia and finally Sydney. To top it off, one large suitcase was lost on the domestic flight from Melbourne to Sydney and the Swissotel did not have any record of our reservations, or our group tour the next day with Holland America. We were exhausted and concerned.

What a difference a day makes. The sun shone, our luggage arrived and we found the tour group. Sydney is a clean, sophisticated, beautiful city. The first evening we explored Darling Harbor, one of my favorite places, and saw the famous opera house. It is indeed gorgeous.

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

It is a long trip from Anchorage, Alaska, to Sydney, Australia.  On our arrival with the change in time zones we skip ahead a whole day, so it looks like we are flying for two days.  On the way home we leave around 7:00AM and arrive home at 5:00PM on the same day.  Time zones always seem crazy when we fly overseas.  I will post on my blog whenever I can, I’m really not sure if I will have reliable internet during our trip.  I’ll share about the trip when we get back to the studio.  Meanwhile, orders on the website for Niebrugge Studio will not be filled until March 24.

Take care,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

If you don’t like the weather in Alaska one day, just wait a day.  After bearing through weeks of bitter cold, hurricane force winds, then rain, Girdwood was a perfect place to be last Sunday during the Alyeska Ski Club training races.  Perfect temperatures, excellent snow conditions and happy faces basked in the gorgeous glory of an amazing landscape on a picture perfect day.  I found many beautiful scenes to use as reference material in future paintings.  Days like this are the reason we live and love it here!

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

During the Christmas break we took a research trip at the Alyeska Ski Resort in Girdwood, Alaska.   We enjoyed a huge bonus watching our grandchildren participate in their ski programs.  Our granddaughter is a member of the Alyeska Ski Club for youngsters called the Mighty Mites, and our grandson is in his first year with the Juniors.  He is one of the youngest members having qualified by only two days.   While the Juniors skied in the four day Coca Cola Holiday Classic, the Mighty Mites found more than enough fun sliding down snow banks in their spare time.  Unfortunately the weather grew uncomfortably cold, well below zero, and put a damper on skiing for all but the very hardy.   We were fortunate to have our good old Glennallen winter gear packed in our survival bags that we have always kept in the car, and even though we looked a bit geeky at the ski resort in bunny boots and Carhartt hats we continued to enjoy the outdoor activities well into the New Year without the discomfort from the extreme cold.  The landscape was beautiful, tall trees heavily loaded with snow with a backdrop of magnificent snow covered mountains.  The resort decorated trees around the lodge with tiny white lights, it was wonderful!  Great stuff for future paintings!

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska Artist

During a recent sojourn searching for new images to use as subjects in future paintings we watched the New Years Eve Torchlight Parade at Alyeska Ski Resort, Girdwood, Alaska, where hundreds of skiers and snowboarders slowly descended the mountain in a blaze of glory.  What a beautiful procession!  Afterward the sky was filled with brilliant colorful explosions from a grand fireworks presentation.  I’ve got to think about how I can portray this event on canvas with paint and brushes.  Hmmmm………

Gail Niebrugge, Alaskas artist