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Continued……

As the Copper River exits the narrow channel at the Childs Glacier, it spreads out and meanders slowly around sand bars, and islands rife with narrow channels and backwater coves.   Floating slowly in the sunshine leaning back against the inflated side tubes we studied the glacier capped mountains above the east shore.  We lost track counting black bear that were spotted along the hillside there were so many.  Ripe wild berries lured bears who gorged on the abundant sweet juicy fruits.  This area is lush with waterfowl and wildlife, and is a birders dream.

Hot, dirty, sweaty and rough from five days on the river we made our last camp early in the day on one of the isolated islands in the middle of the river.  There were numerous small clear blue pools on the island and each of us sought our own private place to bathe.  It felt so good to be somewhat clean again.  Our final evening was a congenial gathering summarizing our findings for a written report of the Copper River trip on Proposed Copper River Trail to be submitted to a long list of important entities including; the Alaska Department of Transportation, Cordova District Ranger, Eyak Corp., Tatitlek Corp., TRAAK Board, the governor at this time Tony Knowles, Alaska Department of Natural Resources, Senators Stevens and Murkowski, city of Valdez, Copper River Watershed Project, Chitina Native Corp., River Management Society, Alaska State Parks History and Archeology, and others.  It was a heady idea, we did the research and now it was up to the powers that be.

The morning of day six continued our good fortune with wonderful weather, we floated a short distance to our take out location at Flagg Point, and waited for the charter bus to haul all of us and gear back to the ferry terminal in Cordova to Valdez and the drive back to Glennallen.  This was the year that we arranged in advance to have artwork shipped to the Reluctant Fisherman Inn at Cordova, where we stayed several additional days for an exhibit and further research in the Orca Inlet and surrounding region.  But, that is the subject for another story…….later.

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…….

Paddling across the placid Miles Lake was slow and peaceful, sunshine warmed the rubber raft and its occupants.  With the historic Million Dollar Railway bridge in view, first as a small dot, it was fun to watch it grow larger and larger as we approached until it loomed huge overhead.  Beaching our flotilla we explored the shoreline and walked the bridge to the opposite shore.  A wooden board served as a makeshift gangplank and filled the gap at the collapsed span on the far side.  The span slipped from its foundation in 1964 during the Good Friday Earthquake.  The bridge was permanently repaired and rededicated in 2005.

A short distance from the bridge is the 300′ high vertical face of Childs Glacier.  As the glacier slowly advances huge chunks of ice calve, or break off, from the face crashing into the river creating huge waves.  During the warm summer calving is a frequent occasion, and is loud.  It sounds like the crack of lightening and the din of thunder, up very close.  As magnificent as it is to watch it is as treacherous to float past the face in a rubber raft.  The river is narrow at the glacier and there are two choices, end the trip here or take your chances and float on by.  Fortunately we were spared riding a tsunami wave, all three vessels floated past the ice wall safely.

There is a campground at Childs Glacier, reached by road 25 miles from Cordova.  I love this glacier and camping here, it is spectacular to watch and should be on the “must see” list for anyone visiting Alaska.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…..

It was a fast, quick trip through the Abercrombie Rapids on the Copper River, unlike the legendary stories about how rough it could be we navigated it like pros.  Bear signs marked heavy use along the right shoreline and the rafts following us spotted a Grizzly sow with two cubs close to the water.  We missed seeing them, no doubt because we were first to shoot the rapids and all eyes in our boat were glued to roaring white water and large boulders in our path.  It was an exciting and exhilarating experience.

The historic Copper River and Northwest rail bed parted with the shoreline just before the rapids and curved to the right, we would not see it again until we crossed Miles Lake at the Million Dollar Bridge just before the Childs Glacier.  Growing tired we decided to establish camp on a sandbar at the confluence of the Miles Glacier on the west shore of Miles Lake, our fourth night on the river.  The evening light was awesome, a photographers dream, I busily shot photos of reflections, mountains, and landscape.  After dinner a group discussion commenced around the campfire, we shared our thoughts and observations on the feasibility of building a recreational trail following the historic rail bed.  All agreed that the remoteness and terrain were huge issues, and costs would be great especially rebuilding bridges over major river crossings.  We discussed maintenance, search and rescue, winter and/or summer use, the hut to hut system, alternate routes, and more.

The next morning we set up a camera with the self-timer and shot a group photo.  Members of this motley crew beginning at the top row from left to right; my husband Bob, Norris Nims, Tom Church, Jack Mosley, Dan Haas, Paul Boos, bottom row from left to right; Janelle Eklund, Sue Sherman, Helen Nienhueser, Bunny Sterin, Devi Sharp, Kathy Liska, and myself.  Great explorers, all.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued….

We broke our camp near the Wernicke River on the Copper River, Alaska, in 1998 on the morning of our fourth day, and floated through Baird Canyon to a spot on the east bank at the Allen River lake outwash/overflow channel.  We explored the whole region from the Allen River mouth area on both sides.  Much evidence of the historic Copper River and Northwest Railway remains in this region.

The remains of pilings from a trestle crossed the Allen  River outflow, and rails were still visible at the end of the road bed.

We found a new channel from the Copper River to the Allen River and paddled, weaving our way through narrow, grassy sandbars until we joined the Copper River again further south.  This is a beautiful, scenic historic area, and extremely interesting to explore.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…..

Paddling the rafts past the braided channels and vast sand and mud flats of the confluence of the Bremner and Copper Rivers was tedious and tiring.  We were glad to see the confluence of the Wernicke River on the west shore, and slowly floated close to land until we found a small protected cove where we landed the rafts.

The banks along the river in this area were steep and required a lot of hauling gear up and down, bear sign was everywhere.  It looked like we were on a well used bear trail.  We were careful to set up the camp kitchen well away from the sleeping tents, this required additional lugging heavy gear.  By now my every muscle was sore, my middle aged body was not used to this much physical labor, and I was glad for the very fit members of the crew.  They did more than their share this evening, for sure.

The views from this campsite were spectacular and my camera went into overtime recording images to use as reference material in future paintings.  In the morning we planned to explore the abandoned railway bed along the narrow Baird Canyon at the confluence of the Allen River and Copper River.  I slept very well in spite of bear fears, we kept the 12 gauge shotgun ready inside the tent.  Five years before, I camped in this very spot and bears walked right through camp.  This night was either peaceful or I was too tired to care.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued……..

Day three of our 1998 float trip on the Copper River, Alaska, exploring the possibility of creating a Rails to Trails system using the abandoned rail bed of the Copper River and Northwestern Railway from Chitina to Cordova.  We found the area around the Heney Glacier Lake was rife with relics and remains of the old railway.  Limited in discovery only by our ability to endure very thick, dense vegetation, and time.  Below are ruins we literally stumbled onto.

Our destination for camp that night was below the Wernicke River on the west shore of the Copper River across from the Allen Glacier about 63.5 miles from our starting point in Chitina.  It required paddling through a difficult and unaesthetic section of the river at the confluence of the Bremner and Copper Rivers, a vast sand and mud flats with braided channels and a very bad spot in the wind.  The best channel followed the west bank, it was time to cease exploring and propel forward.  Fortunately the gusts this day were moderate, I’ve been through this area in strong blasts of wind blown sand when conditions made it almost impossible to move downriver.  We still worked hard and kept close watch knowing that gales can begin at any time without notice.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued……

We floated the Copper River on day 3 with the goal to explore the historic Copper River and Northwest Railroad rail bed along the Tasnuna River delta.  Each stop revealed another part of the history of this region.  Braided into many channels, a hiking trail would not necessarily follow the original route of the rail bed in this area.  We were blessed with another day of sunshine and mild weather.  I found an abundance of wildflowers growing in this region, and took many photos to use as reference for future paintings.

Down river near Heney Glacier Lake area, we hacked, clawed, climbed, and thrashed our way through dense underbrush seeking evidence of the rail bed.  And there was much to be found, if you had the heart to bushwhack in heat and mosquitoes.  At this spot we found a collapsed bridge with rails still suspended across a fast moving creek, an amazing treasure.  Rusty spikes still intact and the date 1918 stamped on a rail.  We explored several sites along the east shore of the Copper River in this area with much success.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…..

The third day of a float trip surveying the Copper River and Northwest Railroad bed along the east shore of the Copper River from Chitina to Cordova, Alaska, during the summer of 1998.  We rose knowing our time would be spent pursuing one of the essential tasks on a long float trip; replenishing drinking water.  Down river we secured the rafts along a steep bank with evidence of a fresh water stream, and thrashed our way through the underbrush toward the sound of a waterfall.  As we hiked away from the river the temperature grew warmer and mosquitoes swarmed out of nowhere.  They clung to every inch of clothing and skin that was not protected, biting fiercely.  We sprayed repellent liberally and donned head nets for protection.

Filtering drinking water is a slow, tedious task.  Everyone took turns manually pumping the stream water through the filter filling each water bottle, then the five gallon jug.  Drinking water was carefully conserved and protected, we used silty river water for everything else.  Once this task was complete, we boarded the rafts to continue the exploration of the historic rail bed, our next stop the Tasnuna River delta, a mile wide area full of sand bars.  We hoped to explore the remains of the rail bed and consider possible bridge construction for a future Rail Trail.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…..

The continuation of a float trip on the Copper River, Alaska, following the Copper River and Northwest Railway rail bed during the summer of 1998.  After exploring the Tiekel River tunnel, we arrived at the delta of Cleave Creek to make camp as the sun was setting.  Alpen glow bathed the mountains across the Copper River, our campsite was already in shadows.  Sunset is around 11:30PM in Alaska during mid summer, we built a bonfire and went about our chores.  The landscape was stunning we lingered around the campfire and watched the light fade into darkness on the opposite peaks.  It was a very productive, exhausting day.

In the dark we found our tents, fluffed up the sleeping bags and secured the bug screens for a much needed rest this night.  Memories of glaciers, mountains, railways, tunnels, waterfalls, filled my head as I slipped into deep dreams and didn’t wake until the sunlight warmed the sides of the tent the next morning.  So many beautiful landscapes to paint, so much to see, so much to do, and another day on the river beacons…..

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…..

We scoured the riverbanks along the east shore of the Copper River, searching for the historic Copper River and Northwestern Railway tunnel near the Tiekel river delta, on our float trip from Chitina to Cordova, Alaska, in 1998.  The shoreline all looked similar.  This massive river is fed by many glaciers, summer heat causes glacier melt, as waters rise debris and silt are scattered changing channels and sometimes blocking known access points.  We already experienced this on the first night when we couldn’t get to shore at the Uranatina River, instead ended up camping on a large sandbar on the delta.  We were disappointed to be unable to explore that region.  This time we didn’t want to miss our goal of the tunnel.  In swift current when the exact destination is unknown it is almost impossible to set up and paddle a raft to the desired spot.  Missing a landing point is pretty much a loss, the Copper River is too fast to travel up stream by raft, only down.  It can be tricky but we were fortunate to have some skilled paddlers on board.  Good fortune and skill guided all three boats to a perfect place to tie up at the north tunnel entrance.

We spent a good deal of time exploring the immediate area and held a group discussion at the south tunnel entrance where a huge boulder blocked the rail bed.  Obstacles such as large boulders, collapsed tunnels, and the absence of bridge crossings at the river deltas made the goal of a Rail Trail seem insurmountable.  Nevertheless, all possibilities were discussed in great detail.  It was a fascinating and interesting experience.

Down the rail bed a few hundred yards we found the remains of a small railway shed, with its identifiable red paint still visible.  The above photo shows my husband, Bob, sporting a shotgun loaded with slugs ready to defend against bears.  Everyone carried pepper spray, bug spray, water bottles, and snacks when exploring the shore.  Deep into an uninhabited wilderness it was best to be prepared.  Sometimes in very dense foliage shouts of “Hey bear, Hey bear, bear” from members of our group warned of our approach.  Surprising a bear sleeping in thick bushes was not on our agenda.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…..

Our second morning was uneventful as we floated along the east shore of the Copper River, visually scouting for remnants of the Copper River and Northwest Railway on our trip from Chitina to Cordova, Alaska, the summer of 1998.  Consulting topographic maps of the area we kept track of every landmark, and used them to guide our path on this gorgeous sunny day.

Our first stop was scheduled for the Tiekel River Railway tunnel just before the Tiekel River delta at about mile 28.5 from Chitina.  We were growing accustomed to the gentle rocking motion of the raft, and savored the miles of uninterrupted scenery as we drifted deeper and deeper into the uninhabited wilderness.  Since Haley Creek we had not seen another soul, nor any trace of man other than the few scattered remnants from the historic railway.  I tried to imagine what it was like when trains traveled the rails in this wilderness, it was beyond comprehension.  Hardly a word was spoken, all of us seemed transfixed by the beauty surrounding our tiny fleet of small rafts.

More tomorrow.

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued……

The photo above is the view from our tent on the sandbar at the confluence of the Uranatina River and the Copper River, Alaska, on the first night of our float trip from Chitina to Cordova in 1998.  A beautiful end to a rainy, cloudy day.

The next morning we woke to this scene, lifting clouds exposed snow covered peaks and blue sky along the route south on the Copper River.  What a beautiful day!  We had a delicious hot breakfast, loaded gear back into dry bags securing them in the rafts and launched into the sunshine.

Floating quietly the only sounds were the flow of fast moving water as it swirled and eddied around rocks and trees, and glacier silt scraping along the bottom of the rubber raft.  Three Trumpeter swan resting in a slough along the edge of the river took flight as we approached, their beautiful trumpeting sounds pierced the calm, then faded into the distance.  Leaning back, resting against the soft inflated sides we allowed the current to carry us forward watching nature pass by, feeling the warmth of the sun.  Heaven on earth, moments in time to be savored and remembered.

More tomorrow.

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…..

After lunch at Haley Creek on the Copper River, Alaska, float trip in 1998, we embarked with care and paddled hard to the opposite shore to bypass a powerful whirlpool below the creek delta.  I’ve experienced this hydraulic in a jet boat, it is an adrenalin packed adventure where the boat goes through a tunnel of whirling water, in the center of the whirlpool all you can see is water.  An experience to definitely avoid in a heavily loaded raft.  Continuing our float in the misty rain we observed Bald Eagles soaring overhead, spotted bears in the mountainside tundra, and immersed ourselves in the spectacular wilderness landscape.  Access to shore at the mouth of the Uranatina River, our destination for the first night camp was blocked by debris and shallow braided channels.  Disappointed that we were unable to explore this region, we pulled ashore a large sand bar on the river delta for the night.  Kitchen consisted of several folding tables, propane stove, coolers, and overhead tarps as rain shelter.  Everyone sought out smooth sandy areas to pitch small tents a distance away from the kitchen and food as a precaution from bears, we were careful to follow the principles of “leave no trace” for the campsite.

The scenery on the first day was nothing less than spectacular, glaciers adorned the mountain tops, waterfalls everywhere, driftwood, rocky outcroppings, and vegetation made the landscape an artists paradise.  Finding time to sketch or draw on a trip of this kind was impossible, so I used my camera to record subject matter to use for future paintings.  At each camp we unloaded the rafts and hauled the gear to a kitchen location where everyone took turns setting up, cooking, and cleaning up after the meal.  We each individually set up our own tents.  Heavy lifting, constant activity, and the impact of working outdoors all day wore me out, I slept very sound the first night on the spectacular Copper River.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…..

Our first stop on the Copper River float trip that began at Chitina, Alaska, was for lunch and exploration of the popular clear water tributary Haley Creek.  In 1998 vehicles were able to access the old Copper River and Northwestern Railway rail bed to this point, and parts of the historic railway trestle still remained.  It was a popular fishing campsite location and plans were underway to connect the rail bed across the creek with a vehicle bridge.  The float from Chitina was exciting paddling through the narrow, deep, fast water of Wood Canyon just above our take out at Haley Creek.

During nineteen years living in the Copper River Basin, in Copper Center Alaska, we often camped on the wide sandy beach at Haley Creek and fished for salmon.  It is one of my favorite campsites.  Sometime around 2003 landslides closed vehicle access to this area and as far as I know there are no plans to reopen the trail.  It is a very big loss for recreational camping.  Today fishermen can still access the area by power boat and it is very popular during the Dip Net season.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Searching through my archives; journals, photos, files, and maps, seeking subject matter for aa new painting I found photos from a very interesting float trip in 1998 on the Copper River, Alaska, and thought I’d share this experience with you on my blog.  The goal was worthy, a bit heady, and offered a chance to explore a significant place in history of the region.  I had the pleasure of being invited as guest artist on this trip that began one rainy summer day near the bridge over the Copper River at Chitina.  Three rafts and thirteen people assembled enough gear for a week, everything was packed into rubber dry bags, or plastic coolers, and lashed securely in place on each inflated boat.  The method for propelling these floating crafts were paddles, we took turns paddling, two on each side.  The first project was to inflate each raft with a pump, we brought manual foot pumps as part of our survival equipment along with patch kits, duct tape and glue.

Pictured is my husband, Bob, packing his small personal dry bag next to our loaded raft.  With up to six people in each boat there wasn’t much room to move around, seating was either on top of the gear or on the inflated sides.  Everyone was required to wear a white water life vest, and no one planned to fall into this very cold, swift, glacier fed river that was muddy with silt at this time of the year.

This trip had a purpose, the participants had professional knowledge of this river, the history, hydrology, geology, and represented the Bureau of Land Management, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, the city of Cordova, Ahtna, Copper Basin Search and Rescue, Trails and Recreation Access in Alaska (TRAAK), and were tasked with looking at and discussing the proposed Rails to Trails project on the former Copper River and Northwestern Railroad corridor along the east bank of the Copper River.  The idea to utilize the historic rail bed as a hiking trail was an unrealized dream of many people.  We were going to evaluate the pros and cons of such a ventrue.  We launched our heavily laden flotilla by mid morning and were on our way down a beautiful wild river full of spawning salmon in the midst of some of the most spectacular scenery in Alaska.  I was elated!

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist