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What a joy and a privilege it is to watch the brown bears feed and cavort in the salt marshes during the spring in Lake Clark National Park, Alaska.  Our time there was too short, I’m planning to return when my schedule allows.  One of our best experiences was watching a sow and her two spring cubs feed and play, the babies did not have a care in the world because the mother kept careful watch over her youthful progeny.

Several sows in heat lured the boars who paraded up and down the marshes and chased the females through the grounds of the lodge at night, these two are the youngest in the group the sow is about five years old and ready to carry her first litter.  Observing wild animals in their own habitat is a luxury, we kept a respectful distance and did not disturb their behavior.  Never did we follow or pursue a bear, we simply waited quietly.  In this area humans are the dominate species and when moving about we stayed in group to appear larger.  If a bear became too curious, the simple act of raising up our arms with a stern command was enough to deter the approach.  I’m still in awe and thankful for the opportunity to experience these amazing, powerful, huge animals.

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska wildlife artist

During our brown bear/seabird research trip along the coastline of Cook Inlet, Alaska, in Lake Clark National Park, we hiked to an alpine lake to explore in canoes.  Pictured is Bob and our expert guide, Jen, negotiating away from an unexpected view of a black bear cub.  We could not locate the mother, so thought it best to move to the other side of the lake lest we inadvertently come between the mom and cub (not a good situation).  As soon as we approached the opposite shore a huge black bear emerged from the undergrowth.  He quickly ambled away from us, but not without gaining our undivided attention.  Apparently there are a large number of black bears in the region but they do not mix with the brown bears near the seashore.

We spent a very enjoyable afternoon exploring the lake and saw a Trumpeter swan land along the north shore.  An artists paradise.

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska wilderness artist

We spent two days viewing brown bears along the Cook Inlet, Alaska, shoreline in Lake Clark National Park.  It was a new experience to observe these massive animals digging for clams at low tide, foraging for food in the tall grasses and interact with each other as the mating season began.  Our first day we counted more than 14 bears.  Sometimes we traveled using an all terrain vehicle crossing through rivers to reach our desired destination.

Our trusty guide, Jen, taught us much about bear behavior.  The weather started our cold and rainy until the sun shone on last day.  A perfect trip.

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska wilderness artist

We had a fabulous trip to view brown bears and watch the early nest building of seabirds, Murres and Puffins, at an island rookery in Cook Inlet, Alaska.  The photo above shows me climbing over rocks to gain a closer view of the birds.  This area was an incredible natural rock garden with early blooming wildflowers, moss and grasses growing in beautiful harmony.  The extreme tides of Cook Inlet (27′ at the peak) made waders essential to disembark the boat.

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska wilderness artist

Continued….

The final day of our stay at Nugget Creek in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska, in 1994, we packed up our gear and loaded the ATV’s for the 20 mile drive back to our trailer and van at Strelna Creek.  Nugget Creek was flowing high and fast, we watched and waited but saw little change all day.  Several mountain bikers were stranded on the opposite shore and we shouted our concerns back and forth deciding the fast moving swollen creek was too dangerous to cross.  We should have known, five days of rain causes quite a bit of runoff from the surrounding peaks.

The sun was shining, but we estimated it would take 24 hours for the rising water to subside, so we turned around to spend another night at the cabin.  The next day we tried again, this time the creek was back to its normal flow and the crossing was easy.

We enjoyed the ride in the sunshine back to the vehicle, the long stretches of overgrown trail were warm, the leaves shimmered in the light.  Our trip created good memories and a gave a glimpse into another world, a place of quiet, isolation, and stunning views of the wilderness.  I think of that magic cabin from time to time and wonder who is using it and if it is still maintained as nicely as it was when we were there.

I recommend the trip highly, contact the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park for current conditions and to reserve the public use cabin at Nugget Creek.

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…..

More from my journal notes from a trip to a cabin near Nugget Creek in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska, in 1994.

Every day we drove to a spot along the trail where we were pretty sure we could view Mt. Blackburn, the highest peak in the Wrangell mountains.  I remember seeing a painting by famous Alaska artist, Fred Machetanz, of Blackburn from somewhere near this location and I wanted to see it for myself.  But, the continuous rain and clouds kept visibility low.  The mountain is 16,390 feet in elevation, and even though we could often see the foothills, the peak evaded us.

During our last evening at the cabin the clouds cleared and we raced down the trail to our vantage point to finally see the mountain exposed!  We were disappointed that this was not the view we were seeking, clearly we needed to be further up the ridges and on the right side of the glacier to find the view we sought.  Even though, it was a gorgeous sight and worth the effort.  Tomorrow we planned to pack and leave, this had been a good trip.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…..

While on a trip to Nugget Creek in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park in 1994, we found the ruins of an old copper mine on the hillside not far from our cabin.  Prospectors began searching the Kuskulana River region during 1899, and mined the Nugget Creek property for nearly a decade with little positive result.  The efforts were abandoned in 1919.  The logs of a small cabin remain along with many rusty artifacts and a partially collapsed wooden mine building.

I love poking through ruins, and this was no exception.  It rained a little, then stopped, and started again.  Although it was late summer, the wind and rain made our outdoor explorations chilly.  Soon we returned to our haven tucked away, hidden on the side of a canyon above Nugget Creek.

This entire region of the Wrangell Mountains is ripe with history and has very few visitors.  We are fortunate to be among the few.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…..

Our 1994 trip to Nugget Creek in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park was a great opportunity to explore the surrounding area.  We motored our ATV’s along the gravel bars of the Kuskulana River and headed east toward the head waters and the terminus of the Kuskulana Glacier.  Every day during our stay it rained, we always wore our rain gear, rubber boots, hats and rubber gloves.  I also packed sketchbook and inking pens wrapped securely inside a plastic bag and stowed in my waist pack, along with camera, lenses, bottle of water, food, and bear spray.  I was loaded down for hiking, but riding on our 4-wheelers made traveling easier.

We investigated pools of turquoise water and found sand bars at the base of the glacier in the rain, brown bear tracks dotted the mud, and a beautiful rainbow glowed over the glacial moraine.  We headed back to the cabin driving up a ridge alongside the glacier for a better view of the area.

This is the view looking down on the glacier moraine far below.  With darkness descending we returned to the cozy cabin for dinner and relaxed, me with my sketch book and Bob reading.  Tomorrow we decided to find the ruins of an abandoned mine in the area.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…….

Excepts from my journal of a trip in 1994 to a remote cabin above Nugget Creek in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska.  We settled into an interesting schedule during our five days at the cabin, exploring the area on our ATV’s, scoping the river and canyon walls with binoculars to observe wild game, cooking, eating, and writing in my journal or completing ink drawings on location.  A Grizzly bear appeared daily below the cabin along the creek bed scourging for food, fattening itself before winter hibernation.  Bald Eagles soared overhead, and an occasional red fox was spotted quietly hunting along the canyon bluffs.  We were content in this amazing place.

One day we decided to go back down the ridge to the Nugget Creek public use cabin at the creek crossing and explore up the Kuskalana river to the bottom of the Kuskalana Glacier moraine.  I sketched an ink drawing of the cabin while using the handle bars of my four wheeler as a table.

“Nugget Creek Cabin” original ink drawing 7.5″ x 10″ ©Gail Niebrugge, collection of the artist.

As we approached the Kuskalana River we found a crude airstrip along a gravel bar where an ancient truck looked abandoned, missing a tire, the wheel propped up by a rock.

“Nugget Creek Truck” original ink drawing 10″ x 14″, framed 20″ x 24″, ©Gail Niebrugge, giclee prints available, call for price and availability of original.

The awesome thing about our trip is that so far we had not seen another living soul, nor an airplane, we were alone in the wilderness.  The silence of nature is soothing and refreshing.  We were energized.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued……

From my journal of a 1994 trip in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska, to a private cabin deep in the remote wilderness above Nugget Creek in the Wrangell mountains.  The minute we unlocked the cabin door and peered inside we were again struck dumb and unable to speak.  Not only was the location extreme, but the cabin inside was immaculate and functional.  It contained two hand-made bunks fastened to the outside walls in the back, with a narrow window in between that looked straight down the gorge.  A beautiful hand-made wood stove stood along another wall, dry kindling and logs were stacked neatly at its side.  A stunning hand-hewn table and three chairs, all freshly varnished, stood opposite the wood stove.  The floor shown with fresh paint.  The kitchen was located just inside the door, the few cupboards were fully stocked, and a propane stove stood ready to use.

Original ink drawing “Coppess Stove Company” ©Gail Niebrugge, 6″ x 9″ collection of the artist.

Outside the second woodshed contained the big barrel that we moved into place under a rain gutter.  This was the water source for the cabin.  Inside there was no place to wash or do dishes, this was done on the front porch on the folding counter.  Above was a plaque with the words “Ye Old Wash Stand”, it looked 800′ straight down into the canyon!

This amazing building was constructed entirely by hand, all of the wood and equipment was brought in during the winter on sleds pulled by snow machines.  It must have taken years to build, the thought and attention to detail were amazing, and the views were completely out-of-this-world.  We settled into our routine and soon adjusted to the precarious nature of our location, and enjoyed the total privacy and isolation, being at one with the wilderness and nature.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

“The Woodshed” ink drawing 4.5″ x 6″ ©Gail Niebrugge, collection of the artist.

Continued……

The continuing story from my 1994 journal/sketch book of our trip in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska, to a cabin above Nugget Creek in the Wrangell Mountains.  The woodshed/outhouse duo was tucked against the canyon wall about 30′ before the cabin, it had no door and was positioned on the edge of a sheer drop straight down to the creek 800′ or more below.  Inside the privy half of the shed was a coffee can containing toilet paper, a big axe mounted on the wall with the words “Nugget Creek” burned into the handle, and various rusty tools from old mining camps.  The other half held dry firewood, neatly stacked and ready to burn.

After carrying our gear down the steep trail we explored the tiny yard of this impossibly remote peninsula.  We walked to the edge beyond the cabin where the land narrowed to a point with a sheer drop on three sides.  I felt uneasy standing there, we were no more than 50′ beyond the cabin.

Photos could not tell the story.  I made several attempts to sketch the set-up in my journal, above is my last try.  It shows the ATV’s parked above at the antenna, the antenna wire traveling down to the cabin above the vertical trail, next the outhouse/woodshed with a view, then a second woodshed next to the cabin.  The cabin was perched on the edge of the cliff with just enough room for a small porch at the front door, next was the picnic table and rain barrel, then the third woodshed, and finally the end of the peninsula with a sheer drop off.  What doesn’t show here is that the sheer drop is on all three sides.  My sketch shows the location of a grizzly bear far below, one that we watched every day.

This sketch shows how narrow the building site was, the woodshed/outhouse is not pictured it is located above on the right, what you see is the second woodshed near the cabin, and the cabin on a foundation that drops off sharply in the back.  There is a porch at the front door with a folding wash stand attached to the cabin wall.  The porch could be approached from the right or the left, but there was nothing but a gaping ravine off the front.  We realized that nighttime trips to the outhouse would have to be done with caution, and a flashlight.

I hope you might have a better idea of this preposterous set-up with the help of my fabulous drawings, but I don’t expect you to believe it, you had to see it to believe it!  And all of this is very remote, deep, deep in the wilderness of the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…….

We continued riding our ATV’s up the ridge that followed Nugget Creek in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park on a 1994 research trip, searching for the trail that led to the private cabin where we planned to stay.  A sparsely traveled track appeared to the left leading to a steep sided peninsula jutting into the Nugget Creek canyon, our directions showed that an antenna would mark the parking area for the building.  We found the antenna at the edge of a cliff, but no cabin was in sight.  Gingerly we crept to the edge to peer down and saw a skinny almost vertical foot path descending to a ledge below, where a little cabin sat, perched on a narrow pinnacle above a precipitous ravine.  It was an amazing sight!

Overcoming the fear of height, we began a series of trips hauling our gear down the steep slope to the cabin.  We came to a structure that was not visible from above, it was an open shed with a metal roof.  One side was full of dry firewood and the other half was an outhouse with a world class view!  A little further down the trail was the cabin, carefully placed on this precarious rocky shelf protruding into the canyon.  Looking across the narrow gorge the canyon walls were higher than the building and the span across was about 200 yards! Evidence of game trails were visible used occasionally by Dall sheep.  We were speechless to find a well-built, meticulous building, freshly painted in this impossible location.

Here is a sketch of a side elevation of the cabin taken from my 1994 sketchbook/journal .

Another sketch from my journal showing the narrow, deep canyon and the location of the cabin on the peninsula ledge.

More tomorrow.

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska Artist

Continued……..

Fortunately we packed a tow strap and some tools on our trip up Nugget Creek trail in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska, in 1994.  With Bob’s ATV hopelessly stuck, we dug the mud at the high center and shoved branches under the wheels rocking the rig back and forth to gain traction.  Using both vehicles in four wheel drive compound low and a tow strap the inert Honda was finally free.  After that we watched carefully for deep ruts and carefully avoided them.

Within minutes rain began pelting our faces and glasses making it hard to see.  We stopped at a cleared area called “Half Way” camp to eat dinner in the rain and then continued for 1 1/2 hours to Clear Creek crossing where the water level was moderate.   With a little maneuvering around boulders we forded the river without incident.  Two months before we aborted our trip on this trail at the Clear Creek crossing, because the water was so high it was unsafe to cross.  The final crossing at Nugget Creek was 2′ deep and our little 4-wheelers floated and bobbed their way across, wheels touching the river bottom just often enough to propel us forward in the right direction.

A short way beyond the creek is a sturdy, well-built public use cabin that was empty.  The logs along the front porch were deeply scarred from bear claws, tufts of golden fur dangled from door hinges, door handle, and wood splinters along the front of the building.  The cabin windows were covered by pieces of sheet metal as armor against bears.  It is located on a spectacular site just a short way from the terminus of the Kuskulana Glacier with snow-clad Mt. Blackburn towering overhead.  We didn’t explore this day for we still had several miles to go to reach our final destination of a private cabin on the ridge up the trail along the canyon near the headwaters of Nugget Creek.

More tomorrow…..

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

One memorable research trip in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska, began late August 1994 when we towed our two ATV’s through the tiny town of Chitina and followed the McCarthy road about 10 miles to Strelna.  Here a narrow dirt road, the Kotsina, forked to the north leading to the Nugget Creek trailhead at Strelna Creek where we parked our rig and unloaded the four wheelers.  We secured waterproof dry bags, a small ice chest, and two 2 gallon cans of fuel to the all terrain vehicles, and headed down the trail with enough gear for five days.  If you plan to take this trip today, check with the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, ORV’s may not be allowed anymore but hiking and biking should be fine.  We had a permit to use ours back in 1994.

Rain clouds threatened as we rode the crude trail that skirted the foothills along the Kuskulana River twenty miles to our destination.  Dressed in rain gear, rubber boots, gloves, and hats, we each wore a waist pack with water bottle, bear spray, snacks, bug repellent and camera, additionally Bob carried our 12 gauge shotgun loaded with slugs for protection.  The trail crosses five creeks before it reaches Nugget Creek and during a wet year the crossings can be impassible.  It had been six weeks since rain so we were expecting a trouble free trip.  We planned to stay at a very remote private cabin in the canyon near the headwaters of Nugget Creek near Skyscraper Peak in the foothills of 16,390 foot tall Mt. Blackburn in the Wrangell mountains.

At the beginning of the trail is a spongy, muddy bog that we were warned might not be passable.  Part way through the muck, Bob’s vehicle high centered and was hopelessly stuck.  I couldn’t imagine what these mud flats would be like during the rainy season if they were this bad after six weeks without rain.

More tomorrow……

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued……

As the Copper River exits the narrow channel at the Childs Glacier, it spreads out and meanders slowly around sand bars, and islands rife with narrow channels and backwater coves.   Floating slowly in the sunshine leaning back against the inflated side tubes we studied the glacier capped mountains above the east shore.  We lost track counting black bear that were spotted along the hillside there were so many.  Ripe wild berries lured bears who gorged on the abundant sweet juicy fruits.  This area is lush with waterfowl and wildlife, and is a birders dream.

Hot, dirty, sweaty and rough from five days on the river we made our last camp early in the day on one of the isolated islands in the middle of the river.  There were numerous small clear blue pools on the island and each of us sought our own private place to bathe.  It felt so good to be somewhat clean again.  Our final evening was a congenial gathering summarizing our findings for a written report of the Copper River trip on Proposed Copper River Trail to be submitted to a long list of important entities including; the Alaska Department of Transportation, Cordova District Ranger, Eyak Corp., Tatitlek Corp., TRAAK Board, the governor at this time Tony Knowles, Alaska Department of Natural Resources, Senators Stevens and Murkowski, city of Valdez, Copper River Watershed Project, Chitina Native Corp., River Management Society, Alaska State Parks History and Archeology, and others.  It was a heady idea, we did the research and now it was up to the powers that be.

The morning of day six continued our good fortune with wonderful weather, we floated a short distance to our take out location at Flagg Point, and waited for the charter bus to haul all of us and gear back to the ferry terminal in Cordova to Valdez and the drive back to Glennallen.  This was the year that we arranged in advance to have artwork shipped to the Reluctant Fisherman Inn at Cordova, where we stayed several additional days for an exhibit and further research in the Orca Inlet and surrounding region.  But, that is the subject for another story…….later.

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…….

Paddling across the placid Miles Lake was slow and peaceful, sunshine warmed the rubber raft and its occupants.  With the historic Million Dollar Railway bridge in view, first as a small dot, it was fun to watch it grow larger and larger as we approached until it loomed huge overhead.  Beaching our flotilla we explored the shoreline and walked the bridge to the opposite shore.  A wooden board served as a makeshift gangplank and filled the gap at the collapsed span on the far side.  The span slipped from its foundation in 1964 during the Good Friday Earthquake.  The bridge was permanently repaired and rededicated in 2005.

A short distance from the bridge is the 300′ high vertical face of Childs Glacier.  As the glacier slowly advances huge chunks of ice calve, or break off, from the face crashing into the river creating huge waves.  During the warm summer calving is a frequent occasion, and is loud.  It sounds like the crack of lightening and the din of thunder, up very close.  As magnificent as it is to watch it is as treacherous to float past the face in a rubber raft.  The river is narrow at the glacier and there are two choices, end the trip here or take your chances and float on by.  Fortunately we were spared riding a tsunami wave, all three vessels floated past the ice wall safely.

There is a campground at Childs Glacier, reached by road 25 miles from Cordova.  I love this glacier and camping here, it is spectacular to watch and should be on the “must see” list for anyone visiting Alaska.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…..

It was a fast, quick trip through the Abercrombie Rapids on the Copper River, unlike the legendary stories about how rough it could be we navigated it like pros.  Bear signs marked heavy use along the right shoreline and the rafts following us spotted a Grizzly sow with two cubs close to the water.  We missed seeing them, no doubt because we were first to shoot the rapids and all eyes in our boat were glued to roaring white water and large boulders in our path.  It was an exciting and exhilarating experience.

The historic Copper River and Northwest rail bed parted with the shoreline just before the rapids and curved to the right, we would not see it again until we crossed Miles Lake at the Million Dollar Bridge just before the Childs Glacier.  Growing tired we decided to establish camp on a sandbar at the confluence of the Miles Glacier on the west shore of Miles Lake, our fourth night on the river.  The evening light was awesome, a photographers dream, I busily shot photos of reflections, mountains, and landscape.  After dinner a group discussion commenced around the campfire, we shared our thoughts and observations on the feasibility of building a recreational trail following the historic rail bed.  All agreed that the remoteness and terrain were huge issues, and costs would be great especially rebuilding bridges over major river crossings.  We discussed maintenance, search and rescue, winter and/or summer use, the hut to hut system, alternate routes, and more.

The next morning we set up a camera with the self-timer and shot a group photo.  Members of this motley crew beginning at the top row from left to right; my husband Bob, Norris Nims, Tom Church, Jack Mosley, Dan Haas, Paul Boos, bottom row from left to right; Janelle Eklund, Sue Sherman, Helen Nienhueser, Bunny Sterin, Devi Sharp, Kathy Liska, and myself.  Great explorers, all.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued….

We broke our camp near the Wernicke River on the Copper River, Alaska, in 1998 on the morning of our fourth day, and floated through Baird Canyon to a spot on the east bank at the Allen River lake outwash/overflow channel.  We explored the whole region from the Allen River mouth area on both sides.  Much evidence of the historic Copper River and Northwest Railway remains in this region.

The remains of pilings from a trestle crossed the Allen  River outflow, and rails were still visible at the end of the road bed.

We found a new channel from the Copper River to the Allen River and paddled, weaving our way through narrow, grassy sandbars until we joined the Copper River again further south.  This is a beautiful, scenic historic area, and extremely interesting to explore.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued…..

Paddling the rafts past the braided channels and vast sand and mud flats of the confluence of the Bremner and Copper Rivers was tedious and tiring.  We were glad to see the confluence of the Wernicke River on the west shore, and slowly floated close to land until we found a small protected cove where we landed the rafts.

The banks along the river in this area were steep and required a lot of hauling gear up and down, bear sign was everywhere.  It looked like we were on a well used bear trail.  We were careful to set up the camp kitchen well away from the sleeping tents, this required additional lugging heavy gear.  By now my every muscle was sore, my middle aged body was not used to this much physical labor, and I was glad for the very fit members of the crew.  They did more than their share this evening, for sure.

The views from this campsite were spectacular and my camera went into overtime recording images to use as reference material in future paintings.  In the morning we planned to explore the abandoned railway bed along the narrow Baird Canyon at the confluence of the Allen River and Copper River.  I slept very well in spite of bear fears, we kept the 12 gauge shotgun ready inside the tent.  Five years before, I camped in this very spot and bears walked right through camp.  This night was either peaceful or I was too tired to care.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist

Continued……..

Day three of our 1998 float trip on the Copper River, Alaska, exploring the possibility of creating a Rails to Trails system using the abandoned rail bed of the Copper River and Northwestern Railway from Chitina to Cordova.  We found the area around the Heney Glacier Lake was rife with relics and remains of the old railway.  Limited in discovery only by our ability to endure very thick, dense vegetation, and time.  Below are ruins we literally stumbled onto.

Our destination for camp that night was below the Wernicke River on the west shore of the Copper River across from the Allen Glacier about 63.5 miles from our starting point in Chitina.  It required paddling through a difficult and unaesthetic section of the river at the confluence of the Bremner and Copper Rivers, a vast sand and mud flats with braided channels and a very bad spot in the wind.  The best channel followed the west bank, it was time to cease exploring and propel forward.  Fortunately the gusts this day were moderate, I’ve been through this area in strong blasts of wind blown sand when conditions made it almost impossible to move downriver.  We still worked hard and kept close watch knowing that gales can begin at any time without notice.

More tomorrow,

Gail Niebrugge, Alaska artist