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Driving to Wonder Lake was a gamble with fuel that was worth taking, the mountain shown dazzling, clouds evaporated and gorgeous scenes were everywhere. I shot photos until my camera registered “card full”. Exchanging the full memory card for an empty one I parked the truck at the Mc Kinley Bar trail head, donned my light weight hiking set-up and headed down the trail on foot. Wonderful vistas greeted me at every turn, this is one of the most beautiful hikes in Denali. Four miles later I was happy and satisfied that I’d found what I was seeking.

During the 50 mile drive back to the cabin I watched the mountain make its own weather finally disappearing behind layers of clouds. Part way I parked near Eielson framing the mountain in the camper window as I cooked dinner, the tip of the peak remained bathed in alpen glow surrounded by a dark puffy coat. I waited eight days for this event and was content. The surrounding landscape glowed golden from evening sun and prompted frequent stops for photos. Nary a bus in sight, the diesel parade had already rolled east terminating at the park entrance. Silence. Lustrous reflected sunset, an artists nirvana. Approaching Highway Pass the blond shape of a grizzly sow appeared romping quickly across the grassy plain with a dark furry spring cub trailing close behind. I watched these exquisite creatures feed and hunt for a long, long time until fading dusk beckoned me to finish the drive to the cabin. A day well done, and it was good.

Gail Niebrugge, Denali Artist-in-Residence

A heavy frost coated the ground in shimmering crystals as I hurried through the morning chores, the sun streamed, no clouds in sight and I was in a frenzy to see the mountain. Driving at daybreak the road was mine I was giddy with anticipation, cresting Stony Dome I gasped at my first glimpse of the glacier clad monolith covered in brilliant snow, struck speechless by its beauty. Bart’s forecast was correct! Yahoo! Denali dominated the landscape resplendent without comparison. I will never grow tired of this amazing mountain.

With a light day pack on my back and camera case on my waist I took several short hikes around Eielson seeking a new perspective. With this set-up I can manage alone quite well. The new Visitor Information Center blends into the landscape perfectly with well-maintained trails that are a joy to hike. Exhausting all compositional possibilities I gambled with my fuel and decided to drive the rest of the road to Wonder Lake. If the weather held I might find a new view of Denali from the west end of the park, I reasoned. With gear piled high on the seat beside me I began the drive down the narrow dirt road toward Wonder Lake.

Gail Niebrugge, Denali Artist-in-Residence

Temperatures dropped in the night the porch thermometer read 37º at 7:00am, dappled sunlight glowed on distant peaks, a strong wind pummeled the clouds. We loaded our packs, mine heavy with everything Bob and I shared the first week, plus a towel and items for a shower. We hiked to the top of the hill for our respective buses, Bob heading east to the park entrance to drive home, mine west to the Toklat ranger station for a shower and to charge dead camera batteries. Shivering as wind cut through our jackets, we felt cold.

We said good bye, climbed into our respective buses and rode off in opposite directions. Immediately I began to re-work my plans. I couldn’t accomplish what I needed using the bus with the unwieldy pack, especially in poor weather conditions. Both of us working as a team achieved success the first week. I reasoned if the sun came out or the mountain (Denali) cleared, I’d be handicapped by bus schedules and awkward gear. I had time alone to think and devised a plan; after showering I will ride the bus back to the cabin and reorganize, carrying only the barest necessities for short daytime bus excursions. If the weather improved or the mountain were visible, I will drive my truck and camper. My vehicle has everything I need to be protected from the elements giving me the option to wait hours for the light. The biggest issue was a shortage of fuel, it was essential to make every trip count and be judicious in calculating consumption.

At the Toklat ranger station I met the Eielson Visitor Center maintenance man, Bart, who told me that a front was moving in and the mountain could clear by evening and it was predicted to be sunny the next day. My spirits rose as I hurried back to the cabin. I loaded the truck and headed to Eielson for the evening passing another group of buses parked in the driveway with tourists picnicking, some walking curiously toward the cabin. I was glad to be on my way out of there, on own away from the noisy chattering crowd of sightseers.

It was wonderful to be on the park road alone, peaceful without much traffic. I saw a few bears in the distance and a fox on the road toting a dead squirrel. The weather at Eielson grew worse but I was snug cooking dinner in the camper and stayed late watching the landscape, heading back to the cabin after all the buses were gone. Clouds thickened and lowered as darkness fell that night. As I fell asleep I hoped Bart was right and the mountain would show itself in the morning.

Gail Niebrugge, Denali Artist-in-Residence

Bob and I spent our last evening together at the Murie cabin in Denali National Park sitting on the porch watching nature at work, the welcome sun warmed the ancient timbers. Bob has bonded with the squirrels who are in perpetual motion stocking their nests under the front stoop. He leaves in the morning on the first bus east to resume work at the studio after six days in the park. I have four days left in the residency and much work to do, hopefully the weather cooperates.

I felt a change in the air, it was fresh and clear with no trace of smoke. Perhaps several days of rain quenched the wildfires or the wind direction shifted pushing the thick haze somewhere else. Regardless, the warm glow of sunlit dusk was a welcome sight and for the first time I had excellent opportunities to shoot photos for painting research. For me, good paintings are all about the light. Without a strong source of illumination the subject is flat and lifeless. All week I’ve had nothing but dreary conditions from low clouds, or a grey-brown smoky haze filtered landscape. I shot photos until the last rays of the sun burnished the mountain tops and the rest of the land was dark. I think I have something to work with when I return to the studio. Finally! I smiled to myself and felt good!

Gail Niebrugge, Denali Artist-in-Residence

Rain pounded the roof on the sixth day of my artist residency in Denali National Park. My spirits hit an all time low. This was Bob’s last day at the Murie cabin we decided to take the bus to the top of Sable pass and hike down one last time. Mid-day the rain stopped, but a lingering smokey haze was like seeing through a dirty lens, or smudged glasses. Finally, the sun broke through small gaps in the clouds and searchlight beams traveled at the speed of the wind across the distant hills. As we hiked spots of blue sky emerged and more sunbeams danced on the meadows, lighting fireweed, highlighting ridges, creating beautiful light and shadows. A photographers delight, a gift for an artist. I felt my mood lighten a certain zest added to my step, it was a scene from the “Sound of Music”.

We saw the sow grizzly with two spring cubs again, and later the two adult grizzlies wisely separated by a great distance from the fierce mama this time. I shot lots of film of landscape and became enthused for the first time in a week that I might have something to paint. Toward the bottom of the grade we could see the Murie cabin far below, a tiny speck in a grand vista. In the above photo the cabin is toward the lower right hand corner, on the lower left is the small fresh water stream with the hill above. The East Fork River runs from left to right across the middle of the photo and in the distance is the park road cut into the hillside as it climbs toward Polychrome Pass. It is indeed a privilege to be a part of such a wild and beautiful land, even for a short time.

Gail Niebrugge, Denali Artist-in-Residence