Temperatures dropped in the night the porch thermometer read 37º at 7:00am, dappled sunlight glowed on distant peaks, a strong wind pummeled the clouds. We loaded our packs, mine heavy with everything Bob and I shared the first week, plus a towel and items for a shower. We hiked to the top of the hill for our respective buses, Bob heading east to the park entrance to drive home, mine west to the Toklat ranger station for a shower and to charge dead camera batteries. Shivering as wind cut through our jackets, we felt cold.
We said good bye, climbed into our respective buses and rode off in opposite directions. Immediately I began to re-work my plans. I couldn’t accomplish what I needed using the bus with the unwieldy pack, especially in poor weather conditions. Both of us working as a team achieved success the first week. I reasoned if the sun came out or the mountain (Denali) cleared, I’d be handicapped by bus schedules and awkward gear. I had time alone to think and devised a plan; after showering I will ride the bus back to the cabin and reorganize, carrying only the barest necessities for short daytime bus excursions. If the weather improved or the mountain were visible, I will drive my truck and camper. My vehicle has everything I need to be protected from the elements giving me the option to wait hours for the light. The biggest issue was a shortage of fuel, it was essential to make every trip count and be judicious in calculating consumption.
At the Toklat ranger station I met the Eielson Visitor Center maintenance man, Bart, who told me that a front was moving in and the mountain could clear by evening and it was predicted to be sunny the next day. My spirits rose as I hurried back to the cabin. I loaded the truck and headed to Eielson for the evening passing another group of buses parked in the driveway with tourists picnicking, some walking curiously toward the cabin. I was glad to be on my way out of there, on own away from the noisy chattering crowd of sightseers.
It was wonderful to be on the park road alone, peaceful without much traffic. I saw a few bears in the distance and a fox on the road toting a dead squirrel. The weather at Eielson grew worse but I was snug cooking dinner in the camper and stayed late watching the landscape, heading back to the cabin after all the buses were gone. Clouds thickened and lowered as darkness fell that night. As I fell asleep I hoped Bart was right and the mountain would show itself in the morning.
Gail Niebrugge, Denali Artist-in-Residence
